![]() ![]() As far as we can tell, Agon, also known as Queen's Guard, was the first one. The use of hexagons in games seems to be a recent practice. For a more serious and in-depth mathematical look at hex grids, I wrote a PDF document that covers many aspects you won't see anywhere else, with specific emphasis on the things that arise in game developemnt: defining shapes with simple equations on a hex grid (a triangle has max(x, y, z) < r), dot and croiss products for cheap trigonometry, tranformations matrices, the hex equivalnt of quadtrees, procedural generation (with perlin-like noise), and repsentation of triangular, rhombille and floret pentagonal grids.įun grid fact #1: Agon is the oldest known game to use a hex grid (we know of) If you want share in this grid movement, follow us on Twitter ( or look out for the hashtag #fungridfacts.Įdit: This is a sample of some of the fun facts of hex grids. These are all about hexagonal grids, one of our favorite types of grids. We have been sharing a short fact each day over Twitter here we expand on those facts and add a few more. There are two that have to be seated, one between to the two larger boards and the other between the top large board and the smaller, vertical board in the back that has many of the I/O sockets on it.We thought it might be a good idea to share some of the interesting (and obscure) facts we have uncovered in our quest to know everything we can about grids and their use in games. So, just a heads up that if you have to take the top board off to reach the ribbon cables underneath, make sure that the plugs are reseated in the socket. Thanks so much for the helpful hint on how to fix this! The pixel pattern was gone and everything was back to normal. This time I made sure the socket and plug between the boards were seated, reassembled and this time it worked. I also noticed that on the top board there is the word "push" on it directly above the plug. So, I took everything apart again and this time I noticed that there is a plug and socket between the two boards (also another one between the back board and the top board) and I had not verified that the plug was seated in the socket the first time. I replaced the lamp, but nothing changed. After releasing and reseating the three cables, I reassembled everything and it turned on, but there was no light and the light was blinking like the lightbulb had burned out. So, I had to remove the top board to get to the one underneath. I discovered that there are two boards on this model and the one with the three LCD ribbon cables was on the bottom. After trying the non-surgical remedies posted here, I decided to tear into it. You can look for unofficial repairers, but I suspect that if you don't fix it by unplugging and re-plugging the LCD cables, it will still be too expensive to fix.Īfter about 5 years of use, my Epson Powerlite 3500 projector showed a repeating pixel pattern on the screen similar to what others had posted here. Pulling up the tab switch should release them, pressing down should lock them.Īs for Epson official repairs, in this situation, they're likely to charge you as much as a new projector. The LCD ribbon cables are the 3 wider ones behind the lens, they form a square pattern. Once you're able to loosen the housing, peek underneath before you remove it, because there's one cable attaching the mainboard to the button menu you'll have to flip the housing backwards after it's loosened. ![]() Never force anything: if it feels tight, it's because it needs to be unscrewed somewhere. If it still doesn't move, then you left a screw to remove somewhere. If it doesn't move, then you need to take the other 2. You can also try resetting your colour profiles (you will lose calibration settings), or do a full reset (you will lose also the lamp hours count).Īfter you remove all the bottom screws and the 2 screws at the top, on the back, gently loosen the housing. Click to expand.First, don't forget to try a different source, like rekbones said. ![]()
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